spinning FAQ's

I have a little problem with my Kiwi spinning wheel. The orifice has a little rust. What is the best thing to do?!

I would clean it with steel wool & rub on a little lubricating oil. This should prevent the rust from re-occurring. Usually when spinning with greasy fleece wool, the natural lanoline in the wool will protect the steel from rusting.

I am curious to know what the ratio of my traditional wheel is. I bought it about 30 some years ago. It has only one ratio choice.

Thank you for being a great Ashford supporter. The ratio of your flyer to wheel was around 6.5 : 1 however it's easy to check. Just note the position of the flyer & count the number of times it turns for one complete revolution of the wheel.

I have a Kiwi wheel & there is a squeak coming from underneath it. What can I do?

All that is required to stop the squeak is to lie the wheel on its back and apply a drop of oil to each of the joints of the 4 hinges. I recommend you also apply a drop of oil to the con rod, flyer & bobbin bearings.

I'm planning a trip & would like to take my Joy with me on the plane. Can I take it as carry-on luggage or will I need to check it?

The international standard for carry-on is 22" x 14" x 9" or a combined total of 45". The Joy is 25" x 15¾" x 9½" which is a combined total of 50". However some airlines allow larger carry-on depending on which aircraft they use. Please ask your airline before flying to see if it is OK or if you will need to check it in.

How old is my wheel?

To identify how old your Ashford Traditional is click here to view the timeline.
How do change my double drive wheel to single drive?

Click on this link for full instructions.pdf

How do I make my wheel easy to treadle?

The most important aspect of spinning wheel maintenance is to ensure the main 3 elements of the wheel are free to rotate. To check this, remove the drive & brake band. Use Ashford spinning wheel oil or 30 grade motor oil.

Wheel.

Spin the wheel. It should rotate freely for around 20+ revolutions. - Wheel bearings. Prize the wheel supports apart and let the oil drop onto the crank between the hub and the bearings.

*Con rod bearing.

*Treadle pins. Use either candle wax or oil to reduce noise and friction.

*Treadle hinge pins on double treadle wheels.

*If the wheel appears to being pinched between the wheel supports loosen the bolts or screws holding the frame, spin the wheel until it is free & then gradually retighten the bolts & screws.

*Check the crank / con rod bearing to ensure it isn’t pinching.

*Check that the gap between the bottom of the con rod (pitman) and the treadle rail is at least 1/2" (10mm). If greater than this it can cause your ankle strain & if closer the two can bind thus stretching the joint.

*Check there is approx. 1/16” (1.5mm) side play between the hub & bearings. On the Traveller this can be achieved by loosening the 2 bolts holding the wheel supports & moving them until correct.

Flyer.

Spin the flyer. It should rotate freely.

*If not check & lubricate the flyer bearings.

*Ensure the flyer bearings are at right angles to the flyer shaft. If not loosen the screws holding the maid upright & realign. Then retighten the screws.

*Check there is approx. 1/8” (2-3mm) end float between the flyer, bobbin & flyer bearings.

*If your wheel has been factory finished, scrape any lacquer of the spindle.

*Check the alignment with the wheel. If necessary, loosen the screws holding the maiden bar, realign & tighten.

*If the drive band is worn replace with a medium soft cotton cord.

Bobbin.

*Check & lubricate the bobbin bearings.

*If the bobbin doesn’t run freely the bearings may be too tight on the flyer shaft. If so ream them with a ¼” (6.25mm) round fine chain saw file or fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil.

*On double drive wheels the flyer whorls have "V" grooves. The bobbin whorl is "U” shaped. This difference enables the wheel to drive the flyer at a constant speed and allows the bobbin to accelerate or slow down when drafting. *Check the bobbin whorl is smooth and "U" shaped.

Wheel

Spin the wheel. It should rotate freely for around 20+ revolutions. - Wheel bearings. Prize the wheel supports apart and let the oil drop onto the crank between the hub and the bearings.
Con rod bearing.
Treadle pins. Use either candle wax or oil to reduce noise and friction.
Treadle hinge pins on double treadle wheels.
If the wheel appears to being pinched between the wheel supports loosen the bolts or screws holding the frame, spin the wheel until it is free & then gradually retighten the bolts & screws.
Check the crank / con rod bearing to ensure it isn’t pinching.
Check that the gap between the bottom of the con rod (pitman) and the treadle rail is at least 1/2" (10mm). If greater than this it can cause your ankle strain & if closer the two can bind thus stretching the joint.
Check there is approx. 1/16” (1.5mm) side play between the hub & bearings. On the Traveller this can be achieved by loosening the 2 bolts holding the wheel supports & moving them until correct.

Flyer

Spin the flyer. It should rotate freely.
If not check & lubricate the flyer bearings.
Ensure the flyer bearings are at right angles to the flyer shaft. If not loosen the screws holding the maid upright & realign. Then retighten the screws.
Check there is approx. 1/8” (2-3mm) end float between the flyer, bobbin & flyer bearings.
If your wheel has been factory finished, scrape any lacquer of the spindle.
Check the alignment with the wheel. If necessary, loosen the screws holding the maiden bar, realign & tighten.
If the drive band is worn replace with a medium soft cotton cord.

Bobbin

Check & lubricate the bobbin bearings.
If the bobbin doesn’t run freely the bearings may be too tight on the flyer shaft. If so ream them with a ¼” (6.25mm) round fine chain saw file or fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil.
On double drive wheels the flyer whorls have "V" grooves. The bobbin whorl is "U” shaped. This difference enables the wheel to drive the flyer at a constant speed and allows the bobbin to accelerate or slow down when drafting. Check the bobbin whorl is smooth and "U" shaped.

I think my flyer is out of balance. What can I do?

Either push 1 or 2 thumb tacks into the underside of the light side of the flyer arm for every hook removed, or for a more aesthetic result add small wood screws.

To balance your flyer, remove one hook from one side of the flyer & then treadle your wheel. If the vibration is reduced but still there, try removing another hook & so on. If it is worse replace the hook & remove a hook on the opposite side. Continue until the flyer is vibration free. The side that still has all it's hook is lighter & needs additional weight to balance it. Either push 1 or 2 thumb tacks into the underside of the light side of the flyer arm for every hook removed, or for a more aesthetic result add small wood screws.

What to do if the yarn snags or won’t draw in?

What to do if the yarn snags or won’t draw in:

*Ensure the bobbin rotates freely on the flyer shaft. Clear the hole with a file & lubricate.

*Check the flyer hooks are smooth & are not snagging the yarn. Replace the hooks if necessary.

*Check the orifice is clean & free from snags. Clear with a file.

Single drive

*Check the brake band is over the bobbin & the spring is just starting to extend.

Double drive

*Check the drive band is around the small whorl on the bobbin & the largest flyer whorl & there is sufficient tension on the drive band.

Ensure the bobbin rotates freely on the flyer shaft. Clear the hole with a file & lubricate.
Check the flyer hooks are smooth & are not snagging the yarn. Replace the hooks if necessary.
Check the orifice is clean & free from snags. Clear with a file.

Single drive

Check the brake band is over the bobbin & the spring is just starting to extend.

Double drive

Check the drive band is around the small whorl on the bobbin & the largest flyer whorl & there is sufficient tension on the drive band.

How do I prevent the yarn being jerked out of my hands?

Single drive

*Reduce the brake band tension.

*Check the bobbin whorl is smooth. If necessary smooth with sandpaper or Scotchbrite.

*Apply a drop of lubricant to the bobbin whorl.

Single drive

Reduce the brake band tension.
Check the bobbin whorl is smooth. If necessary smooth with sandpaper or Scotchbrite.
Apply a drop of lubricant to the bobbin whorl.

How much tension should I have on the drive band?

*Only have sufficient tension to drive the flyer & bobbin with out slippage. Too much tension makes treadling harder.

*Generally the drive belt should be able to be easily depressed about 1" (25mm). Twist the belt tension knob until you have the correct tension.

*Apply belt rosin or fit a stretchy drive belt “Turbo Kit” to increase grip.

Only have sufficient tension to drive the flyer & bobbin with out slippage. Too much tension makes treadling harder.
Generally the drive belt should be able to be easily depressed about 25mm (1ins). Twist the belt tension knob until you have the correct tension.
Apply belt rosin or fit a stretchy drive belt “Turbo Kit” to increase grip.

Why use two tension springs on the brake band?

Two springs fitted either side of the bobbin whorl will make plying easier as it allows the brake band to flex rather than pull against the tension knob.

What can I do to my Elizabeth wheel to keep it from getting out of alignment?

For easy treadling & to ensure the drive band remains in the whorls, check the alignment of the wheel with the flyer & bobbin whorls. If not aligned loosen the bolts securing the main wheel supports under the base with a 4mm allen key. Twist the supports slightly so the wheel moves to the left or right until correctly aligned. As you tighten the bolts, ensure that the wheel continues to turn freely.

How do I avoid my yarn getting over twisted?

Slow the flyer down by putting the drive band onto a larger whorl.

Treadle slower. Around 60 RPM is a nice easy speed to treadle at.

Draft your yarn faster. This may require you to better prepare your fibre prior to spinning.

Slow the flyer down by putting the drive band onto a larger whorl.

Treadle slower. Around 60 RPM is a nice easy speed to treadle at.

Draft your yarn faster. This may require you to better prepare your fibre prior to spinning.

The spokes & hub on my wheel are very loose. How do I repair it?

It's a relatively simple repair job. Remove the crank, prise open the hub so it's in 2 pieces but make a mark so you

can put the spokes back in the same holes. Use regular wood glue on the spokes and hub and glue it back

together clamping it with 2 x G clamps. Leave the crank through the hub so the hole remains aligned but remove it

and clean out the hole for the hub pin before the glue dries. Check if possible that the rim and crank are at right

angles so the wheel will run true. If this is unsuccessful a replacement wheel can be ordered from your local

Ashford dealer.

It's a relatively simple repair job. Remove the crank, prise open the hub so it's in 2 pieces but make a mark so you can put the spokes back in the same holes. Use regular wood glue on the spokes and hub and glue it back together clamping it with 2 x G clamps. Leave the crank through the hub so the hole remains aligned but remove it and clean out the hole for the hub pin before the glue dries. Check if possible that the rim and crank are at right angles so the wheel will run true. If this is unsuccessful a replacement wheel can be ordered from your local Ashford dealer.

The stretchy drive band has stretched a little. Can I rejoin it?

We recommend the drive bands always be loosened when not spinning. However if stretched , cut a short section

out including the original joint and rejoined by melting the ends with a gas flame (a match is OK but tends to

carbon up the joint slightly), then just push the ends together & hold while the material cools.

We recommend the drive bands always be loosened when not spinning. However if stretched, cut a short section out including the original joint and rejoined by melting the ends with a gas flame (a match is OK but tends to carbon up the joint slightly), then just push the ends together & hold while the material cools.

Any suggestions for spinning superfine merino?

To give a lighter draw in replace the brake band with a 4 ply commercial knitting cotton with a no. 61 rubber band

on either side of the bobbin. Check the bobbin whorl is smooth & apply a drop of oil.

A recommendation when spinning superfine merino on the Joy.....

Ashley Barrington of South Australia makes the following recommendation when spinning superfine Merino on the

Joy.

" A 4 ply commercial knitting cotton with a no. 61 rubber band on either side of the bobbin has proved a real winner

for me. I can spin for hours without any muscle fatigue and don't have any jerkiness. Sandpapering the groove and

adding a drop of oil also seemed to help"

Thank you Ashley for sharing your experience with others. Richard Ashford

To give a lighter draw in replace the brake band with a 4 ply commercial knitting cotton with a no. 61 rubber band on either side of the bobbin. Check the bobbin whorl is smooth & apply a drop of oil.

A recommendation when spinning superfine merino on the Joy - Ashley Barrington of South Australia makes the following recommendation when spinning superfine Merino on the Joy." A 4 ply commercial knitting cotton with a no. 61 rubber band on either side of the bobbin has proved a real winner for me. I can spin for hours without any muscle fatigue and don't have any jerkiness. Sandpapering the groove and adding a drop of oil also seemed to help".

"Thank you Ashley for sharing your experience with others". Richard Ashford

How do I prevent my Ashford Traditional Wheel 'walking'?

*Check the wheel is free running.

*Attaching rubber feet to the ends of the legs.

*Treadle with a down-wards action rather than away from you.

Check the wheel is free running.
Attaching rubber feet to the ends of the legs.
Treadle with a down-wards action rather than away from you.

How can I tell if my Traditional Wheel will accept the double treadle conversion kit?

To identify if it will fit, the front treadle rail should be 19 3/4" long. Earlier models (pre 1972) were about 2" longer.

What is the best finish for my spinning wheel?

Most of our spinning wheels are made from Southland Silver Beech a beautiful native timber of New Zealand

sourced from sustainably managed forest, plywood or MDF (medium density fibre board). If you wheel is natural

timber it should be protected as soon as possible to avoid staining from lubricants & protection from any climatic

changes. We recommend our Ashford Teak Wax Finishing kit, however any reputable wood oil or wax finish would

be suitable. Factory lacquered wheels may be further enhanced with our Teak Wax finish.

Most of our spinning wheels are made from Southland Silver Beech a beautiful native timber of New Zealand sourced from sustainably managed forest, plywood or MDF (medium density fibre board). If you wheel is natural timber it should be protected as soon as possible to avoid staining from lubricants & protection from any climatic changes. We recommend our Ashford Teak Wax Finishing kit, however any reputable wood oil or wax finish would be suitable. Factory lacquered wheels may be further enhanced with our Teak Wax finish.

What is the orifice height of your wheels?

As there is considerable interest in the orifice height of our wheels, the following table details all our wheels:

Wheel Inches Mm

Country Spinner 28 710

Electronic Spinner 7.75 195

Elizabeth Spinning Wheel 26 660

Joy Spinning Wheel 22 560

Kiwi Spinning Wheel 27.75 700

Traditional Spinning Wheel 26.5 675

Traveller Spinning Wheel 31.5 800

As there is considerable interest in the orifice height of our wheels, the following table details all our wheels:

Wheel	Inches	Mm
Country	28	710
Electronic	7.75	195
Elizabeth	26	660
Joy	22	560
Kiwi	27.75	700
Traditional	26.5	675
Traveller	31.5	800

My older Ashford Traditional wheel is quite noisy. How can I fix this?

My older Ashford Tradititional wheel is quite noisy... How can I fix this?

I have an older Ashford Traditional and it is quite noisy and makes a clunky sound even with proper oiling.

On older wheels we used a 1/8" diameter silver steel hub pin which wears the hole in the crank. A simple but

temporary solution is to remove the hub pin and hit it with a hammer so that it has a slight banana shape. Then tap

it back into the hole. A better and permanent solution is to order a "Clunky Wheel Kit" from your local Ashford

dealer. This kit includes a new crank, hub pin and con rod. It's easy to fit and will make for silent spinning.

The best option (apart from buying a new Ashford wheel) is to fit a "Double Treadle Kit" which include the parts

mentioned above plus double treadles to make for effortless and quiet spinning.

On older wheels we used a 1/8" diameter silver steel hub pin which wears the hole in the crank. A simple but temporary solution is to remove the hub pin and hit it with a hammer so that it has a slight banana shape. Then tap it back into the hole. A better and permanent solution is to order a "Clunky Wheel Kit" from your local Ashford dealer. This kit includes a new crank, hub pin and con rod. It's easy to fit and will make for silent spinning. The best option (apart from buying a new Ashford wheel) is to fit a "Double Treadle Kit" which include the parts mentioned above plus double treadles to make for effortless and quiet spinning.

While spinning with my Joy Wheel the machine moves along easily, however when I start plying, the treadling becomes harder. Why does this occur?

While spinning with my Joy Wheel the machine moves along easily, however when I start plying, the treadling

becomes harder. Why does this occur?

The hard treadling when plying is I believe due to the brake band gripping on the bobbin whorl. To overcome this there are a number of solutions:

*Smooth the bottom of the bobbin whorl groove with sandpaper or scotchbrite.

*Apply a drop of oil to the bobbin whorl to allow the brake band to slip more easily.

*On the Joy we drill pilot holes beside the holes for brake tension knob and threading hook knob. These pilot holes

allow you to swap the screw eye attached to the tension spring from one side to the other as well as the tension

knob and threading hook. Have the spring on the left when spinning (clockwise) and on the right when plying

(anticlockwise). The tension spring lets the brake band slip which makes treadling easier.

*Cut the brake band between the tension knob and bobbin whorl and add a second tension spring. This means

there is no need to swap the tension knob from side to side. Springs are available from Ashford dealers all over the

USA.

The hard treadling when plying is I believe due to the brake band gripping on the bobbin whorl. To overcome this there are a number of solutions:

Smooth the bottom of the bobbin whorl groove with sandpaper or scotchbrite.
Apply a drop of oil to the bobbin whorl to allow the brake band to slip more easily.
On the Joy we drill pilot holes beside the holes for brake tension knob and threading hook knob. These pilot holes allow you to swap the screw eye attached to the tension spring from one side to the other as well as the tension knob and threading hook. Have the spring on the left when spinning (clockwise) and on the right when plying (anticlockwise). The tension spring lets the brake band slip which makes treadling easier.
Cut the brake band between the tension knob and bobbin whorl and add a second tension spring. This means there is no need to swap the tension knob from side to side. Springs are available from Ashford dealers all over the USA.

I have recently purchased an Ashford Traditional Wheel and assembled it. I've placed the DD belt around the wheel, whorl, then the wheel again and under the bobbin and attached it with a square knot. Is this correct?

I have recently purchased an Ashford Traditional Wheel and assembled it. I've placed the DD belt around the

wheel, whorl, then the wheel again and under the bobbin and attached it with a square knot. Is this correct?

Yes, you are correct. The result is the bobbin rotates faster than the flyer due to the smaller whorl on the bobbin.

When drafting the yarn, the drive cord slips in the bobbin whorl, but when you release the tension on the yarn, the

bobbin accelerates to the speed it is being driven and pulls the yarn onto itself. To vary the pull on the yarn, loosen

or tighten the belt tension.

Yes, you are correct. The result is the bobbin rotates faster than the flyer due to the smaller whorl on the bobbin.
When drafting the yarn, the drive cord slips in the bobbin whorl, but when you release the tension on the yarn, the bobbin accelerates to the speed it is being driven and pulls the yarn onto itself. To vary the pull on the yarn, loosen or tighten the belt tension.

What is the Kiwi Wheel made from and how do I finish it?

The Wheel part of the Kiwi is made from composite materials (customwood) so it is actually more stable than solid

timber products. The rest of the wheel is made from Southland Silver Beech. As with all wooden products a

protection from dry moist climates is achieved by coating the product with a finish.

Either the Ashford wax finishing kit or a Danish oil finish would be suitable. The customwood can also be stained

with NGR stain and lacquered over the top.

The Wheel part of the Kiwi is made from composite materials (custom wood) so it is actually more stable than solid timber products. The rest of the wheel is made from Southland Silver Beech. As with all wooden products a protection from dry moist climates is achieved by coating the product with a finish.
Either the Ashford wax finishing kit or a Danish oil finish would be suitable. The custom wood can also be stained with NGR stain and lacquered over the top.

There are several items in my maintenance kit that I have no clue as to what they are, or how they work.

A clear short length of solid plastic tube?

*This is the con-rod joint now supplied in all spinning wheel kits. The new plastic con-rod joint replaced the leather

joint on older model spinning wheels. On current models you will notice a hole drilled in the con-rod (the wooden

piece that goes from the crank to the base of the wheel) to take the plastic con-rod joint.

A small piece of white ribbon?

*This is the threading hook tape. Tie it to your threading hook to conveniently hang your hook on your wheel.

A tiny flat back circular piece of metal?

*This is the E-clip now supplied in all spinning wheel kits. This replaced the rubber O-ring which is placed on the

end of the metal crank (which goes through the middle of the wheel). There is a groove cut in the crank to take an

O-ring or and E-clip.

Maintenance Kit

for the long life of your wheel

A clear short length of solid plastic tube?

This is the con-rod joint now supplied in all spinning wheel kits. The new plastic con-rod joint replaced the leather joint on older model spinning wheels. On current models you will notice a hole drilled in the con-rod (the wooden piece that goes from the crank to the base of the wheel) to take the plastic con-rod joint.

A small piece of white ribbon?

This is the threading hook tape. Tie it to your threading hook to conveniently hang your hook on your wheel.

A tiny flat back circular piece of metal?

This is the E-clip now supplied in all spinning wheel kits. This replaced the rubber O-ring which is placed on the end of the metal crank (which goes through the middle of the wheel). There is a groove cut in the crank to take an O-ring or and E-clip.

Acc_MK

Maintenance Kit for the long life of your wheel

My con rod joint keeps breaking and I can't understand why. I am not treadling hard and the wheel revolves freely.

Check that the gap between the bottom of the con rod (pitman) and the treadle rail is at least 1/2" (10mm). If closer

the two can bind thus stretching and eventually breaking the joint.

Check that the gap between the bottom of the con rod (pitman) and the treadle rail is at least 1/2" (10mm). If closer
the two can bind thus stretching and eventually breaking the joint.

I'm having trouble pushing the crank through the hub on my new wheel. Any suggestions?

The hole in the hub has been drilled precisely on a CNC router with a 3/8" drill bit and should be a firm fit. However

if tight try rubbing a little candle wax on the crank and push it through the hub before positioning the wheel in the

frame. Avoid using oil as this can swell the wood. If still tight wrap sandpaper around a pencil & rub through the

hole or use a 3/8" drill bit, to remove any roughness.

The hole in the hub has been drilled precisely on a CNC router with a 3/8" drill bit and should be a firm fit. However if tight try rubbing a little candle wax on the crank and push it through the hub before positioning the wheel in the frame. Avoid using oil as this can swell the wood. If still tight wrap sandpaper around a pencil & rub through the hole or use a 3/8" drill bit, to remove any roughness.

I have both the Traveller and the Traditional Ashford wheels. I am interested in purchasing the necessary equipment to do lace spinning. Which wheel would you recommend that I adapt?

I have both the Traveller and the Traditional Ashford wheels. I am interested in purchasing the necessary

equipment to do lace spinning. Which wheel would you recommend that I adapt?

I have both the Traveller and the Traditional Ashford wheels. I am interested in purchasing the necessary

equipment to do lace spinning. Which wheel would you recommend that I adapt?

"I personally enjoy using the lace flyer on the Traditional Spinning Wheel. This is because it has more momentum

which makes treadling easier. The lace flyer kit comes with maid uprights fitted with ball bearings and the flyer is

light and aerodynamic but the higher ratios do require more energy. If you haven't already added a double treadle

kit, you could also consider this accessory as they really make for effortless treadling and this combination is my

favourite." Richard Ashford

I have both the Traveller and the Traditional Ashford wheels. I am interested in purchasing the necessary

equipment to do lace spinning. Which wheel would you recommend that I adapt?

"I personally enjoy using the lace flyer on the Traditional Spinning Wheel. This is because it has more momentum which makes treadling easier. The lace flyer kit comes with maid uprights fitted with ball bearings and the flyer is light and aerodynamic but the higher ratios do require more energy. If you haven't already added a double treadle kit, you could also consider this accessory as they really make for effortless treadling and this combination is my favourite". Richard Ashford

I have a little problem with my Kiwi spinning wheel. The orifice has a little rust. What is the best thing to do?!

I am curious to know what the ratio of my traditional wheel is. I bought it about 30 some years ago. It has only one ratio choice.

I have a Kiwi wheel & there is a squeak coming from underneath it. What can I do?

I'm planning a trip & would like to take my Joy with me on the plane. Can I take it as carry-on luggage or will I need to check it?

How old is my wheel?

How do change my double drive wheel to single drive?

How do I make my wheel easy to treadle?

I think my flyer is out of balance. What can I do?

What to do if the yarn snags or won’t draw in?

How do I prevent the yarn being jerked out of my hands?

How much tension should I have on the drive band?

Why use two tension springs on the brake band?

What can I do to my Elizabeth wheel to keep it from getting out of alignment?

How do I avoid my yarn getting over twisted?

The spokes & hub on my wheel are very loose. How do I repair it?

The stretchy drive band has stretched a little. Can I rejoin it?

Any suggestions for spinning superfine merino?

How do I prevent my Ashford Traditional Wheel 'walking'?

How can I tell if my Traditional Wheel will accept the double treadle conversion kit?

What is the best finish for my spinning wheel?

What is the orifice height of your wheels?

My older Ashford Traditional wheel is quite noisy. How can I fix this?

While spinning with my Joy Wheel the machine moves along easily, however when I start plying, the treadling becomes harder. Why does this occur?

I have recently purchased an Ashford Traditional Wheel and assembled it. I've placed the DD belt around the wheel, whorl, then the wheel again and under the bobbin and attached it with a square knot. Is this correct?

What is the Kiwi Wheel made from and how do I finish it?

There are several items in my maintenance kit that I have no clue as to what they are, or how they work.

My con rod joint keeps breaking and I can't understand why. I am not treadling hard and the wheel revolves freely.

I'm having trouble pushing the crank through the hub on my new wheel. Any suggestions?

I have both the Traveller and the Traditional Ashford wheels. I am interested in purchasing the necessary equipment to do lace spinning. Which wheel would you recommend that I adapt?